Accent Lighting - Depending on the size of the bathroom accent lighting can add a little drama to a bathroom by creating visual interest. As part of the decorating scheme, accent lighting can be used to spotlight particular objects that are especially attractive or interesting in the bathroom
Color - Think about the importance of color in your bathroom interior, then use proper lighting to bring out that dramatic color.
Dimming Systems - Today's dimming systems enable you to do several things: lower light levels to conserve energy and increase bulb life, vary the mood of a room, and alter the intensity of the light to suit the activity. In the bathroom a dimmer might be used to create a cozy night light out of an otherwise bright lighting system.
General Lighting - General lighting provides an area with overall illumination. Also known as ambient lighting, general lighting radiates a comfortable level of brightness, enabling one to see and walk about safely. In the bathroom this general lighting probably should be provided by incandescent or halogen lighting.
Indirect Lighting - Coves, soffits and other concealed locations can also be used to provide very pleasant, very effective indirect lighting using T5 or T8 fluorescent strip fixtures. If fluorescent lighting is used in the bathroom, if at all, it should have a very low color temperature (3000K) and a very high color rendering index (85 or even higher).
Layers of Light - There are three basic types of lighting that work together to light a bathroom: general lighting, task lighting, and accent lighting. A good lighting plan combines all three types to light an area, according to function and style.
Low-Voltage Halogen Lighting - Low-voltage halogen lighting offers a very white, crisp kind of light source that has excellent color rendering capabilities and often makes materials like cut glass or polished tile "sparkle".
Task Lighting - In the bathroom, especially around mirrors, task lighting is critical. Task lighting can assist in performing specific tasks such applying makeup, shaving, dressing a wound, or performing a manicure. It is recommended that special neodymium light bulbs be used in these applications since they provide excellent light that very closely simulates sunlight.
Vanity Lighting - Recessed down-lights should NOT be used to light your face while standing at a mirror because the light coming from these fixtures can cause too many shadows on your face. Instead, light fixtures that are attached to the wall either above or beside the mirror should be used. That way, shadows on your face can be minimized. Recessed downlights can be used in other parts of the bathroom for general lighting but NOT for task lighting at the vanity.
Wall Grazing - Wall grazing provides dramatic illumination that reveals the texture of special materials, such as the brick, stone, or tile. Wall grazing is uneven, brighter and scalloped at the top of the wall. For the most exciting effects, use PAR lamps in small aperture down-lights. Locate the downlights no more than 12 inches from the wall and the same distance apart. Wall grazing also lights polished surfaces, such as marble without distracting reflections in the surface.
Wall Washing - Wall washers are special down-lights that direct light up to the top of the wall. They eliminate the shadows, sometimes called "scallops", which are characteristic of simple down-lights. Do not space wall washers more than 36 inches apart. For the smoothest effect, space wall washers 24 inches from the wall and 24 inches apart. Avoid locating wall washers near doors where they can glare into the eyes of people entering the room. Be aware of flickering light or an electrical device that works sometimes and other times does not. This could be the indication of a loose connection somewhere. This is different from dimming and brightening of lights. That is frequently caused by a problem from the power company wiring but could also be in the house main panel.
Instructions for making your own hammock for relaxing in the back yard, with only some fabric, rope and a little time.
What's more relaxing that lying around in your backyard in your hammock, napping in the summer breeze? Oh, you don't have a hammock in which to relax? No problem. You can make a hammock very easily out of some fabric and rope. You'll need 3 yards of some type of very durable fabric, at least 36" wide, needle and thread or sewing machine, and 50" of 38" diameter polypropylene rope, scissors and measuring tape. When choosing a fabric, select something that is breathable. Choose a fabric that when wet, dries quickly, or your hammock could mildew if accidentally left out in the weather. Remember, dark colors attract the heat more, so if you'll be using the hammock mostly in the hot sun, you might want to choose a light color of fabric instead. When possible, select a fabric that is wider than the 36" if there will be couples using the hammock. For the rope, choose a type that specifies "working load" and check the weight warnings. Select a weight that will hold at least the two heaviest people in your home. Since polypropylene rope won't mildew, it is recommended for this project. If you'll be using poles or posts, set them before beginning the hammock. Some people set the posts with eye bolts, but whether you decide on poles or trees, make sure it is sturdy enough to hold the weight of a couple of people. And remember, the further apart your poles, the higher up you'll have to tie the hammock to keep it from dragging the ground when you get in it. To make the hammock, hem the fabric on each end, and the sides, if necessary. Cut the rope in half and thread half through one end hem and half through the other end hem. Use a clothespin to help thread the tope through the hem. Gather the hem on the rope by scrunching it together, then tie a double knot to secure. Repeat for the other end.
Some hammocks are secured to the poles or trees with one rope that is tied around the support with a bowline or several half hitches, but you can also take both rope ends, loop them around the support and tie them to each other. Pull one end of the rope and wrap it twice around the support, then tie one end of the rope to the other using the Josephine knot, also known as the Carrick bend, which is easy to untie when taking down the hammock. To make the Josephine knot, take the two ropes on one end of the hammock, form one into a loop and place the loop on top of the other rope. Now take the end of the second rope and lay it over onto the bottom of one end of the looped rope, slightly below where the loop begins to form. Now take the second rope piece and place it under the other end of the looped piece, just under where the loop begins. Now bring the second rope piece around, over the top of the loop. Continue to move the second rope piece until it is now underneath itself and has formed a loop of its own. Pull both loops tight until they form a knot. This should hold your hammock in place. You can purchase mosquito netting to put over your hammock, before attaching it to the poles. It can be sewn to three sides of the hammock with a zipper on the fourth side, or it can be sewn to one side, and made to pull up over yourself while you're in the hammock. You can also sew a pocket onto the side of the hammock for placing glasses or a book. This can be made from the hammock fabric or another piece of lightweight fabric. Even an old craft bag makes a great pocket for a hammock, just remove straps and sew onto the side of the hammock. If the pocket swings while you're in the hammock and this bothers you, you can instead make a pocket underneath the hammock for sliding in magazines and such. If you want protection from the sun, you can make a makeshift roof for your hammock by tying a tarp over the top. Another hammock accessory is a rope which you can tie above the hammock and use clothes pins to hang a flashlight or other necessities.
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